Archery Equipment

Bows

We use only traditional recurved composite bows. Bows cannot be compound nor have a mechanical trigger. I would not recommend long bows or any type of bow with an arrow shelf (arrow shelves are also forbidden in many competitions). The bow should be able to compensate for an overdraw with a range of 30 to 45 pounds. A higher poundage can be used, and some riders prefer it. However, a higher poundage bow will fatigue your arms much more quickly, which makes it harder to constantly pull a full draw. Because the farthest shot on any competition course does not exceed 45 meters, 30 to 45 pounds is plenty.

Here is a pic of a couple bows I have:

I recommend the cheap Fiberglas Bear Bows from any Joe’s or sporting goods store for beginners and children. I found the Kassai bow to break down fairly quickly, but they are pretty good for the money (though they are getting more expensive). I enjoy the Korean bow, and it is what all of my Korean friends use. However, my favorite bow is the Saluki Bow made Lukas Novotny. If I can, I will use that bow until it breaks, and then I will buy another just like it.

Arrows

Aluminum or carbon fiber (woven or spiral, no straight fibers, because of possible splintering) arrows are best. However, it has been my experience that well made bamboo arrows shoot just as well as carbon fiber. A feather fletching is essential for mounted archery; plastic vanes are not suitable. Plastic vanes will misdirect an arrow if shot on the fletched side due to their stiffness. Because there is no time to make sure your arrows and knocked on the right side, feathered fletchings give you more accuracy even if shot on the flething. Feathers are also softer on your hand. When learning to shoot without an arrow shelf, many will accidentally use their hand as a shelf, and get fletching burns.

Depending on the bow, recommended arrows often have a spine weight of 45 to 50, and tips should be field points of 75 to 80 grams. If you are not sure, check to make sure you have arrows that are compatable with your bow at an archery shop.

Mogu arrows must have a blunted tip, with no field point attached under the covering. Bunny thumpers and bird blunts are sometimes alright, but often more padding is required for safety. I sometimes do plastic vanes on mogu arrows, because they are cheaper. Mogu arrows run a much higher risk of being stepped on by horses, so I go with inexpensive shafts and fletchings.

Thumb Protection / Finger Protection

Most mounted archers I know prefer the thumb draw, because of the incredibly fast shooting you can accomplish with it. However, there are still some who prefer the three finger draw.

Different kinds of thumb protection include:

• Thumb Ring – Used for hundreds of years, and has proven to be great protection against sore thumbs. As well as gives a clean release of the string.

• Thumb Glove (or as Barb calls them, “Thumb Socks”) – Still good protection, and much like using your bare finger as far as release.

• Three Finger Glove (for three finger draw).

• Good Old Athletic Tape, and Band Aids – Only usable once, but good for a days worth of practice. nice cheap solution to thumb comfort. I don’t think I need to put in a picture of this…

Quivers

Some competitions require that you shoot from a quiver, others require that you shoot from your hand. I always practice both. There are many quiver styles, I have two.

Here are my two quivers:

Horse Equipment

I still need to go take pictures for this section…

Proper Saddles:

Convenient Reins: